Cooktop Repair in Plano, TX

Yes. ALAS is based in Plano on W Park Blvd and repairs cooktops in homes across the city, including West Plano, East Plano, Legacy, Willow Bend, Downtown Plano, Park Forest, Windridge, Oak Point, Haggard Farm, Chapel Hill, Deerfield, Kings Ridge, Hunters Glen, Gleneagles and Los Rios.

We serve every Plano ZIP code: 75023, 75024, 75025, 75074, 75075, 75093 and 75094. Enter your ZIP code on this page to confirm service at your address.

Yes. We repair induction cooktops along with gas and electric smooth-top and coil cooktops in Plano homes.

Clogged burner ports, a burner cap that is not seated flat, a wet or dirty igniter, or a failed spark module are the usual causes. Clean the ports with a soft brush, let a wet burner dry, and reseat the cap. If it still won’t light, the igniter or spark module needs service.

Continuous clicking usually means moisture in the igniter or burner switch after a spill, or a failed spark switch. Let the cooktop dry for a few hours. If the clicking continues, the spark switch or spark module needs replacing.

A healthy gas flame is blue. A yellow or weak flame usually comes from clogged burner ports, a dirty air shutter or incorrect gas pressure, and it can mean the gas is not burning cleanly. Clean the burners, and if the flame stays yellow, have it checked promptly.

A burned-out radiant or coil element, a failed infinite switch, loose wiring or a failed temperature limiter are the usual causes. If only one element is dead, it is usually a single part. If several are dead, check the breaker and the control board.

An element that glows on high at every setting, or won’t turn off, almost always has a failed infinite switch or a stuck relay on the control board. Switch off the cooktop breaker and don’t use it until it has been repaired.

Induction only works with magnetic cookware, so test your pan with a magnet. The pan also needs to be close to the size of the zone and centered on it. Check that the control lock is off. If a compatible pan still won’t heat, the cause is usually overheating protection, a failed induction coil or a control board fault.

Codes vary by brand and model. On many induction cooktops, a flashing pan symbol or a U means no compatible pan was detected. Codes that appear after long high-heat cooking often point to overheating protection. A code that keeps coming back usually points to a sensor, cooling fan or control board. Tell us the code when you book.

No. Cracks and chips in a glass cooktop cannot be patched, so the glass top has to be replaced. If the crack reaches a heating element or the controls, stop using the cooktop and switch off the breaker, since moisture can reach the electrical parts.

A gas burner that simply won’t light, with no gas smell, is an inconvenience, and you can use the other burners until it is repaired. Don’t use the cooktop at all if you smell gas, if an element is stuck on high, or if cracked glass reaches an element.

A faint smell for a second when a burner lights is normal. A steady rotten-egg smell is not. Don’t touch light switches or light anything, leave the home, and call 911 or your gas company from outside. Once the gas company says it is safe, we can repair the cooktop.

We repair gas cooktops and pro-style rangetops, electric coil and smooth glass-top cooktops, induction cooktops, and downdraft cooktops with built-in ventilation from Wolf, Thermador, Viking, Miele, Bosch, Monogram, JennAir, KitchenAid, GE, Samsung, LG and other major brands.

Usually, yes, if it is under 10 years old and the problem is an igniter, spark module, switch, element or knob. Premium and built-in cooktops are almost always worth repairing, because a new model may not fit the existing countertop cutout.

Most cooktops last about 13 to 15 years, and gas cooktops often last longer. Cleaning spills quickly, using flat-bottomed cookware and not sliding heavy pots across glass help a cooktop last.

The cost depends on the problem and the part. We start with a diagnosis, then give you a clear repair estimate before any work begins. If you go ahead with the repair, the diagnostic fee is credited toward it. If you decide not to repair, you pay only the diagnostic fee.

Repairs carry a 90-day warranty for non-members and 6 months for ALAS members. The exact coverage is written on your invoice.